“I just want more of her.” A wonderful piece on the late lamented food writer, Laurie Colwin.

Helsinki and the Partial Leonardo

Helsinki and the Partial Leonardo

Dear Kay, We almost didn’t see Helsinki. That’s just a fact. Almost slept through it. After three days of pectopahs and blasting around St. Petersburg, the fellas were double jetlagged–you lose two hours from Copenhagen to St. Petersburg, just when you’re over that first jetlag. And they were homesick. For the ship. We had missed Team Trivia two days in a row. Captain Dag had taken all the kids up for a tour of the...

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St. Petersburg: Land of Many Monumental Contrasts

St. Petersburg: Land of Many Monumental Contrasts

Dear Kay, Among the Things They Think You Want To See is the large category known as monuments. I don’t mind a monument. But the density of monuments in Russia is really, really something. In the basement of the Estonian Museum of the Occupations, they have a bunch of leftover Lenins gleefully removed from every street corner in 1991 when Estonia became independent. In St. Petersburg, our poor guide could barely finish describing Catherine...

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St. Petersburg: Land of So Many Contrasts That It All Blurred Together

St. Petersburg: Land of So Many Contrasts That It All Blurred Together

Dear Kay, Top down, bottom up. Top down, bottom up. That’s the phrase that came to my mind, over and over, as we toured St. Petersburg. The push of dictators, the push back from the people below them. The revolutionaries become the oppressors, up goes down, down goes up. Our steady American democracy, however balky it sometimes feels, has nothing in it to match the sort of ferocious upheaval that Russia has experienced. Our watery borders...

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